Honeymoon: Day 8

Sorry this is another lengthy post, but last one!

We woke up early on Monday to shower and finish packing. We left the hotel around 7 am to make the short drive to the airport and return our rental car. The returning process was super quick and easy, and we were at the airport entrance a little after 7:30 for our 9:35 flight.

When we went to check in, I asked the woman if she could let our baggage through to our United flight. However, since we wouldn't be leaving Honolulu for 12 hours, she said no. I called our travel agent and she was really upset for us, so she said she'd make a call. It really wasn't that big of a deal to me to recheck our bags real quick once we landed in Honolulu, but I let her do her thing. We waited by security for nearly a half an hour before I just said screw it. We put the luggage through and of course I then got a call from our travel agent! I felt bad, but as a crazy person I needed to get to the gate. Since Kauai's airport is small, it took no time at all. We were in within 5 minutes! Andy got pancakes and I just sad and read at the gate. The flight to Honolulu was a quick half an hour and we were in Honolulu!

I will say that at this point, Andy and I were regretting taking the day to go to Pearl Harbor. We were sad to leave our resort, but were also just ready to get home without having to go go go. It was going to be such a hassle figuring out baggage and transportation to and from, and we were dreading it. Plus, with the changes in hours for the USS Arizona Memorial, we knew weren't going to get to see it. I figured it would be a bust going at all.

But after landing on Oahu, we ran to the other side of the airport to recheck our luggage for our United flight that evening at 7:30 pm. It was quick and painless (thankfully)! We had decided to take a bus from the airport to Pearl Harbor, and knew that it would come just before 11 am, so we popped a squat and waited the half hour. I was super worried about the unknown of relying on other transportation, but it came! The ride was less than 10 minutes to Pearl Harbor. The visitors center is quite cool. I didn't realize the area was so big and there was so much more to do than just see the Arizona. We checked our bags and got our head sets for the audio tour first thing..

First stop on the audio tour: the map

The tour comes with a map of numbered spots that correspond with audio sections. You can listen to several pieces of history leading up to the event of Pearl Harbor. It's narrated by Jamie Lee Curtis, but other people pop in, such as historians, veterans, and reenacted voices of Presidents and figures from the day. You walk through a few museum-type buildings where you can view artifacts and watch videos that link up with the audio. I am into nerdy things like reading and history, and Andy is not so much. I knew he really wasn't interested in the tour and he kept speeding me along. I didn't realize until later that I skipped like 5 sets because he was moving so fast! One of my regrets was that I didn't get to hear it all..

View from the visitors center facing the Arizona Memorial (the long white building on the water)

The tour was both interesting and incredibly sad. There were parts where I would've cried if I wasn't in public. Andy and I were both surprised at how populated the place was with Asians (ironic, huh?). He was also a little annoyed that not everyone was paying the respect warranted at a place like that. I know it's vacation but it's basically a cemetery, so it's not really the time to be super goofy.

Originally we thought we would take a cab from Pearl Harbor to Waikiki Beach, but we were worn out. I didn't see the point in paying a cab to drive to other side of the island just to see a beach. Plus, we hadn't made any plans once we would get there. We decided to just take advantage of the other things at Pearl Harbor and stay closer to the airport. At this point I think Andy started to wish he would've slowed down the audio tour to waste more time. We grabbed sandwiches at a snack shop, and decided to see the USS Bowfin submarine. This included another audio tour, which we listened to more intently this time.

Listening to the Bowfin audio tour

USS Bowfin submarine

Aboard the Bowfin facing Ford Island

Next up was the Pacific Aviation Museum over on Ford Island. Since the island is still a naval base and not exactly public, we took a tour bus over. We made it to the museum just in time to watch a short 10 minute video, which I enjoyed. Then we viewed two different airport hangars which housed different aircrafts. I think Andy quite liked this part. I wasn't that into it, but I'm a girl and I don't really care about that stuff. There wasn't a whole lot to see, but we tried to take our time.

We got on the bus to head back to the Harbor around 3 pm-ish. At this point, we decided we would just start the trek to the airport, so we would have plenty of time. We walked to the bus stop and a random guy asked if we were going to Waikiki Beach. We said no, that we were going to the airport, and he said he was a shuttle driver who could take us there for $5 a person. We said sure and headed over to the van.

I should say doing stuff like this is not like me. I am not a risk taker and I don't trust strangers. At all. But for some reason I was okay with it because I had no idea when the next bus was coming and I knew that the airport was close and on the way to Waikiki Beach. We got on the van and everyone else looked normal, so I relaxed. The driver walked away and Andy and I got to talking to the couple next to us. Turns out, it was the shuttle for the Hilton Hotel. The dude was making cash on the side to take us! They reassured us that he had dropped people off at the airport on the way there, but we were still a little anxious. Once we got on our way, he passed the exit for the airport and I felt we were doomed. It turned out to be fine and we were there safe and sound. Since we'd checked our luggage earlier, we zoomed through security in 5 minutes and had 3 hours to wait for our flight. We relaxed knowing that the hard part of traveling was over, made a quick stop at a shop for some Honolulu cookies for my mom, ate dinner at Burger King, and got to our gate. The time went surprisingly fast and we boarded our plane with no problems.

Originally our seats weren't next to each other. They were in the middle section, so we each would have two strangers on either side of us. However, earlier in the week, my mom had upped our seats for us so we were by ourselves on the window aisle and had an extra 6 inches. It was nice. When we took off, they started playing "Safe Haven," so we both were occupied by a few hours. Afterwards, I hit the hay. I was so exhausted after the long day that I fell right asleep. I wouldn't say I was comfortable, and I woke up every few hours, but the flight went by fast! After landing, we grabbed a muffin and some OJ, got our luggage immediately, and were picked up by the car service. It was bittersweet to be back. We were happy to start married life at home, but I kept thinking of the long to-do list we were returning home to!

Overall, it was a wonderful week away. We are now spoiled for every vacation we'll ever take. Good thing we'll be back on the beaches of Hawaii in just six short months :)

Here is a list of things we'd like to do in future visits:
1. See waterfalls (we saw a few but from really far away)
2. Hike the NaPali Coast
3. Go kayaking
4. Do a helicopter tour
5. Try snorkeling again

Honeymoon: Day 7

I will warn you this post is long and with few pictures, but again it's for documentation purposes.

On Sunday we woke up first thing to head to our tubing adventure with Kauai Backcountry. At the shed, we stocked up with our water shoes, helmets, and gloves before loading up two vans worth of tubers. Then we rode up to private land in the mountains, owned by Steve Case (creator of AOL). All of Kauai Backcountry tours are held on his property.

The drive was maybe half an hour, most of it being through grassy fields and forest, completely off the beaten path. During the ride, our tour guide Nalu was very informative. He was a native of the island and a great resource. He was maybe 20 years old? He spoke fluent Hawaiian and had an accent, but told us all about the history of the trees, sugar cane plantations, and just so many things. It was very interesting. The grounds used to be sugar cane plantations, and we even passed a hut from the 1800s where one of the founders of the plantation slept (apparently this hut is some sort of major historical landmark). We stopped to lookout over Wai'ale'ale Crater, again one of the wettest spots on Earth. You could see across to other mountains, which had waterfalls (!). You couldn't see them up close, but you could tell they were there..

A little farther drive took us to our destination. We got out, put on our gear, got a brief safety demo, and began loading up the tubes! I will say I had been most nervous about this experience all week, more so than any other of the events we had booked. I noticed all the other girls were wearing shorts and tanks, and I was just in my plain bikini. I felt out of place, and I was terrified about the water being so cold. It didn't help that I knew we were going to be floating in a ditch..

However, once I got in my tube, I was fine. The water was not uncomfortable at all since my butt was really the only thing touching it. The water was clean and only 2 or 3 ft. deep the whole time, so you could stand if needed. I wouldn't exactly describe it as a lazy river but it isn't too treacherous either. There were times when it sprinkled and moments where you ride slowly in the sun. We passed through 5 different tunnels in the mountains which get a little creepy because it's dark. Our helmets had flashlights, but still. In the final tunnel, they have you keep your flashlights off and I was a little uncomfortable about that, but it was fine. There are a few dips and curves which toss you around a bit, and the instructors aim to get you wet, but it was really enjoyable. It ended up being a really cool experience and I'm glad we did it.

Sidenote: When we got our snorkel gear, Andy really wanted to get an underwater camera, both for the snorkeling and the tubing adventure. I caved, but will say that we took no photos underwater snorkeling. And, Andy was too much of a chicken to get it out of the car for the tubing. A complete waste and I'm still bitter about it, especially since the tubing turned out to be so cool and totally picture worthy. My rant is over. But since we don't have photo proof, here is the link to the company's site which has a video that gives you the gist of what we did: Kauai Backcountry

Anywho, we were probably in the water for not quite an hour. The last part was my favorite because we were completely comfortable at that point, the sun had come out, and we could just relax. When we got close to our landing our lead instructor (who we discovered was a trickster) hid in the bushes and scared us all with pig noises as we road by. We got out, loaded the vans, and drove up a bit to have a picnic lunch. We had turkey sandwiches, Maui potato chips, and Kauai cookies, and loaded for the drive back to the shed. Here is where this story gets interesting..

On the way up Nalu did the talking, but apparently the way back was for Darren, our driver to speak. He was a white kid from Oregon maybe in his mid to late twenties. He mostly talked about what restaurants to go to and tried to give "hidden treasures" of the island but he was rubbing me the wrong way. I kept thinking he had to have lived on the island for just a few years, so how much of an expert could he be? Then we passed a corn field. He asked what we saw and of course Andy, being a farmer, said "corn." Darren said "what kind of corn?" Andy said "research?" Darren started on his spiel about how it's GMO corn...

Sidenote: As we had been driving the island all week, we saw tons of "NO GMO" signs all over the island. While talking with the horseback trail guide, she stated the island had gotten more educated about it in the last year and it was a newer controversy.

I completely understand why the island wants all non-GMO considering it's isolated and they want to follow nature as best as they can, but this Darren kid's reasoning was completely false.  I myself am neither pro or anti-GMO. I'm all for having your own opinion as long as it's an educated one. He was talking about how he saw the chemicals they put on GMO corn and how horrible they are, but he must not realize that the purpose of GMO is to REDUCE the need for chemicals. Andy will tell you he sprays half as much on his GMO corn vs. non-GMO, making the kid's argument completely invalid. He also said he has a friend who works for Monsanto and says everyone there "knows they are bad." Well, my husband is a farmer who sells Monsanto and he would disagree. I won't even touch on the rest of his argument. Even if GMO is bad in any way, it has not been proven. If you want people to agree with your views go for it, but give them corrent information.

The entire time this kid was being an ignorant fool, Andy and I kept our mouths shut. I think for one, we were in shock and didn't have time to respond. And two, we knew it wouldn't matter. When we got in the car, Andy was completely irate. I've seen him angry, but I have never seen him so worked up. I thought he was going to turn the car around and tell on the idiot for brainwashing our whole van into being anti-GMO. You're a tour guide, fool, not an agricultural expert.

Moving on..

The rest of the day we spent by the pool. We got drinks and I wished I would've gotten the mango smoothie sooner - it was soo good.

We had dinner at Duke's Barefoot Bar at the resort. I got Korean beef tacos and Andy got a burger. We spent the evening walking the beach and packed up for our early rise and departure for the airport the next day. We were so sad to be leaving paradise...

Honeymoon: Day 6

Day 6 was Saturday, hiking day! We woke up bright and early, put on our "hiking gear", and made our way south toward Waimea Canyon.

As you see on the map there are two roads that get you to the state park, and one road that takes you up the entire canyon. We took the road off Kekaha up first. I was having a bit of an anxiety attack at this point. The roads were super curvy and winding, and literally right against the side of the cliff. No bars or rails or nothing. It felt like Andy was going 50 mph (when he really was going 20-25).  I was certain we were going to drive right off a cliff. Once we met up with the other road by the state park it got better, and we stopped at our first lookout.

We had a book of trails with us which pointed out places off the road to go and hike. Before we went, I thought this wouldn't be a problem. But, since the roads were narrow and you just had to pull off the side of the road to find the trails, I really wasn't interested. The trails weren't marked so we were kind of clueless and ended up only stopping at the lookouts along the way (these all had official parking and were clearly labeled).

Then we made it to the very top, the end of the road. This place is called Wai'ale'ale (sometimes the Crater), and is known to be one of the wettest spots on Earth. I think if we ever go again we will go all the way to the top first thing before the fog sets in, and stop at the other lookouts on the way down. This lookout was connected to a trail of sorts that we decided to hike down. It was probably 20 ft. wide with cliffs on either side - CREEPY! I surprisingly did okay but I wondered how many people have fallen off. The views were really breathtaking.

The trail

On the way back up to the car, we decided to have a little jog/race. Wuff. The fact that we'd been sitting on our loins all week coupled with the fact that we were at a high altitude, we were wiped. Time to enjoy the ride back down. This time we took Waimea road so our views were a bit different..

We made it back to our hotel probably around noon. I think we just had PB sandwiches and headed to the pool to enjoy the sun of course. We got french fries and onion rings on the beach and just enjoyed the day. We had planned to go to Kilohana plantation for dinner and site seeing, but we realized later on that dinner there ended at 5:30 and we weren't going to make it. That's on our bucket list for the next trip! We ended up ordering salad and pizza and eating it on the beach. I think we got another round of gelato at a place at the strip, too. That night we enjoyed another swim and sat in the hot tub, starting to get sad that our trip was almost over..

Honeymoon: Day 5

On Friday, we had somewhat of a busy(ish) schedule. We had a few free hours in the morning, so we went ahead and soaked up some sun by the pool. We then showered and prepped for our drive back north for an afternoon of activities..

First stop was Common Ground in Kilauhea, the "north shore's field to table experience." Again, this was one of my parent's recommendations. Their mission is based on sustainability. On the grounds you'll find "the Fields," which houses several plants, crops, animals, etc. They also house the Garden Cafe, which serves the very foods that they grow. As a dietitan and foodie, this was my kind of thing. I was not disappointed.

The cafe is entirely outdoors, very laidback. We placed our orders, chose a table, and just enjoyed the scenery of the Fields in the background. I will say this was one of the most reasonably priced meals we had, and we got loads of food. I got a burrito with Kauai pork and Andy ordered a chicken wrap, both with gorgeous, fresh garden salads. . Neither of us finished even half of our meals, but they sure were tasty! Probably a favorite of the trip..

Then we toured the Fields a bit..

I think we left the cafe a little before noon to head over to Silver Falls Ranch for our horseback ride. I will say that on a map, it looks like the ranch is maybe 1/4 mile down the road, very close. This caused a bit of a riff with Andy and I on what route to take. We had to backtrack and go a wacky way because the road is private. Andy was right...

We got to the ranch super early for our 2 o'clock ride, signed papers, changed clothes, and were set. We were the only two riders on the tour, so it was just us and our tour guide. After a brief safety review, we were on our way. Our tour guide (Sabrina? Britney?) gave me a calm horse named Ace because I have only been on a horse 2 or 3 times. Andy got a more difficult horse because he had more experience. He actually told our tour guide that he is "savvy" on a horse. He may have regretted it later because his horse did go off the path a few times.. The ride was nice, but I wish we would've had to use more riding skill. My horse was so trained that I basically sat on him and he led the way. It was just a slow paced walk through a swamp area, with the trees and mountains in the background. We stopped at a stream with a "waterfall" and had a light meal of chicken teriyaki, rice, and juice. We got to feed the horses treats, and headed back to the stables. Even though Andy and I both like riding, it's not something I would need to do again.

I honestly can't remember our guide's name, but she was nice. She grew up on the island working with the horses on the ranch, but had left for a few years to work with horses on the mainland. It was nice because she knew a lot about Hawaiian history, but she also wasn't sheltered to just Hawaii (she was blond haired and didn't really look Hawaiian though). It was at the ranch that we learned about Ni'ihau (the forbidden island). She also brought up a conversation about GMOs, but I will discuss more about that controversy in a later post...

Next, we went to Kauai golf for some putt putt! It was again just right up the road from the ranch and is actually a botanical garden. I will say it wasn't the greatest mini golf course I've ever been on, but it was still fun. I liked that they had fun facts about Hawaiian plants at each hole.

When we finished we shared some gelato, and headed back toward home with one stop left at the Kilauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is the most northern point of all of the Hawaiian islands. We thought it would be a fun landmark to visit. However, when we got there we saw that it closes at 4 pm, so we couldn't go out on the peninsula to the lighthouse itself, but rather just had a distant view. On our next trip I think it would be an interesting thing to do with no doubt amazing views.

Then we enjoyed the scenic drive home watching the sunset. I think we visited the pool for a late night swim and some relaxing in the hot tubs (we did this two or three nights but I can't remember which ones). Even at night it was such a relaxing place. I miss it just thinking about it. We hit the hay and were ready for a hiking adventure the next morning!

Honeymoon: Day 4

Day 4 of our trip was Thursday, my birthday! My birthday wish was to just spend a day in the sun doing nothing but relaxing. So, we woke up early (per usual) and got going. Andy insisted we have a real breakfast, so we went to a little breakfast cafe/stand on the balcony overlooking the pool. Andy got some donuts and I got fruit, toast, and a boiled egg. This was also the point where Andy fell into the tourist trap and bought one of the insanely overpriced Marriott mugs. If you had a mug, you could refill it at any time in a few placed around the hotel for no cost. However, I will say that people without the assigned mugs were still using the stations so it was really pointless... Anywho, after that we went straight to the beach.

One of the things on our list of to-dos for the week was to get a couple's massage. The hotel's spa had stationed huts outside along the beach, and as soon as we arrived we knew we wanted to get hooked up with them! We set our massage up to be on my birthday. We had an 11 am appointment and met the two ladies in the hut in the sand. (Side note: Andy's masseuse was a little worried about his sun burn. By this point it was more spotty, so she didn't want to hurt him) They got right going and it was amazing. Can you image a 50 minute massage on the beach with the sound of the waves in the back? It was seriously the best. Andy is a boy and he is already excited to get another one.

Afterwards, we went to the poolside restaurant, Kalapaki Grill, and got some lunch. I had a tuna pita with hummus, and Andy ordered the Kauai pork taco. The grill had good food, and it was super convenient (yet dangerous) to just charge everything to our room.

After reapplying some lotion, we headed back to the beach for an afternoon of reading, snoozing, and drinking our complimentary Mai Tais. What a way to celebrate 23 years of life, on the beach in Hawaii with my new husband..

We had an 8 pm reservation at the Beach House restaurant, one of the nicest restaurants on the island that my parents said was a must. It is on the south shore, maybe 20 minutes from our hotel. We were ready early so we left before 6 to sight see a bit before eating.

I can't remember the name of this place, but it was just down the road from the Beach House.

Then we bit the bullet and just went to the restaurant. It was literally right on the water and had gorgeous views! Most of the restaurant just opened up like you were sitting outside, but the areas that were closed off were simply glassed in, so the views were not lost to anyone. The surf was good, so we saw a handful of surfers.

We spent the remainder of our time waiting at the bar, and finally got seated. Here's where it gets interesting. From the beginning, our waiter bothered me. Picture a Hawaiian version of Santa Claus - overweight and very jolly. It was very noisy inside so I remember having to talk loudly and move closer to hear Andy. I didn't like this part either. When the waiter asked for our drink orders, Andy ordered a cocktail of some sort and I said "I'll just have water." The waiter spouted off something and all I heard was "we have Evian bottled, would you like sparkling or still." The look on my face was utter confusion. I think I replied with "regular?" He again replied with the sparkling or flat options so I hesitantly just went with the flat. I was so confused and I know my demeanor showed it. Then I saw on the menu that Evian bottled water was $9 and my level of anger shot to about a 12 out of 10. I wanted to punch the little sneak. The table of kids next to us had glasses of regular tap water, so I knew he had been taking advantage of us to raise our bill. My mood plummeted - little things like that really get to me. Andy was really annoyed with me because I was acting like a child at a nice restaurant and letting it ruin my birthday (he was right). We waited a long time before the waiter came back to take our order and I had to ask him about the fish of the evening (everything on the menu was based on the market fish available, so each menu item was dependent on the fish they had that day). I ordered a marlin dish and it was okay. It probably would've been better had I not hated our waiter but oh well. I think Andy liked his pork and mashed potatoes..

It felt like we were there forever and then the waiter came back with a dessert menu. We had not requested the dessert menu, nor had he asked if we wanted it. He basically pressured us to order and then left before we could ask for our bill. A few minutes later he came back and we said no thanks to dessert. Later he brought a birthday ice cream treat for me. I figured since this was free it replaced the $9 water, so I gave Andy the okay to leave him a reasonable tip. I feel like even a bonehead could've sensed my fury that night, but this guy was so jolly I think he was oblivious. The experience was not worth the cost to me. I hope we do not give them our business when we go back in March.

After the ice cream, I was fine. By the time we got home it was time for bed. We were ready to rest up for our day horseback riding to follow.

Honeymoon: Day 3

After a day of relaxing and recuperating in the sun, we were ready to head out for some excitement on Wednesday. We decided it would be a snorkeling day. We woke up bright and early at 6 am since we hadn't quite adjusted to the time change (Hawaii time was 5 hours behind Illinois). We packed our gear and hit the road due North!

Here is a map of the Garden Isle just to give you some perspective.

Source

As you can see on the map, all of the towns on the island are along the shore, very few roads go through the middle - it's mostly nature. So, you must drive along the coast to get anywhere (I didn't mind the views!). Also, the northwest side of the island houses the Na Pali Coast. There are no roads through this area as it is a preserved state park. If you want to get from the north shore to the west shore, you have to drive all the way along the east and south shores to get there. Because of this, people mainly stay in their own local areas and don't move around the island much, even though it's fairly small. 

Andy and I at a lookout north of Kapa'a town

Our resort was in Lihue, on the southeast side of the island. On Wednesday, we drove up through to Kapa'a town to pick up our snorkel gear at Snorkel Bob's. We then drove up to Hanalei Bay in the middle of the north shore to set up shop. The whole drive was a sight. They have several lookouts on the way to give you a chance to get out of the car and enjoy Hawaii nature. It was SO beautiful! The north shore area was much more rural/natural and the views were out of this world. Lihue is beautiful as well, but it's more industrialized and houses the airport, so I'm excited to stay on the north shore in Princeville when we go back in March (EEK!)

Anywho, here is the view from Hanalei Bay. BE-A-UTIFUL! Any of my silly iPhone pictures just can't do any of the island justice.

Ocean view at Hanalei Bay

Mountain view at Hanalei Bay

I didn't get any photos of us in our snorkel gear, but it was pretty uneventful. Hanalei Bay is shallow throughout, making it easy to see the bottom. There is coral reef here and there, but it's kind of tan in color and not really all that special (in my opinion).  Supposedly there is a certain area with a bunch of sea turtles but we never got there. Andy was kind of into it, but after like half an hour in the water I was ready to move on. So, we drove down to Ke'e beach at the very end of the road. There was absolutely NOWHERE to park, but I popped out of the car just to snap a photo. It was so gorgeous. I wish we could've stayed cause that beach is supposed to have good snorkeling (and it was just plain pretty otherwise).

Ke'e Beach

We then worked our way back to Haena beach.  There was actually a designated parking lot, but we kind of made our own parking spot (seriously the area was packed!) and got burgers and hot dogs at a food stand for lunch. The area is actually a camp ground, so there were tents set up in grass before the beach. Haena was actually supposed to have the best snorkeling of all, but the surf was kind of rough and I didn't feel comfortable with Andy going out there. Plus we didn't see anyone else snorkeling and I was kind of over it by then, so we just sat in the sun. It was great boogie boarding surf and Andy was really bummed we didn't have a board to ride - we'll know for next time! This beach again was heaven. It had the bluest, clearest water I have ever seen.

Haena Beach

We sat in the sun for probably an hour or so. I will mention that the day before (our first real day in the sun), Andy got a little sun burn. He believes it was a reaction from the lotion, but he was pretty red, so I was kind of all over him to keep his shirt on for protection at this beach, since we'd been in the sun a while already. At least he says it wasn't painful! After some time relaxing on the beach, we decided to mosey back to the resort. I napped in the car and woke up to Andy parking at Anini beach. It was a short trip, just to check things out. There were benches on a large grassy area for the public, and parking. There wasn't much sandy area at this beach (in some parts the water butts right up to the grassy area against a rock type wall). This beach had beautiful trees reaching out into the water, with gigantic roots sticking from the ground. Another sight.

Anini Beach

I can't really remember what we did when we got home (this is why I need to document). We might've just had fries and onion rings by the pool.

What I remember about these first few days was being tired all the time. I think it was a mixture of the time change, jet lag, and the craziness from the busy week before. Most nights we were out at 9 pm and up at 6 am (lots of sleep at night, which was great!). Car rides wore me out, and I did enjoy a few naps on the beach. It got better as the week went on, though. Relaxing is what vacation is for, right?